| December 2, 2008 |
Created and Maintained by: The Photoimaging Information Council |
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by Jon Sienkiewicz |
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They burn in the night sky for only an instant, but what a performance! We’re attracted by the colorful flash and shattering boom, but even more alluring is the fact that despite all of their power and brilliance, fireworks are fragile and temporary. They burst and die, leaving only a feeble, smoky trail dripping down the dark skyline. Buildings add scale. The iconic castle at Disney’s Magic Kingdom in this shot adds a sense of location. © 2007 Jon Sienkiewicz
And they’re not just for Independence Day anymore, either. Pyrotechnic aerial displays are popular at baseball games, shopping mall grand openings and every night at EPCOT Center. Getting great images of fireworks isn’t difficult once you learn the basics. Here is a checklist you can follow. ![]() © 2007 Jon Sienkiewicz
1. Location is everything. If you can’t see, you can’t get a good shot. Arrive at the venue well before dark to be sure there are no trees in your way. If you’re sitting on the grass, take the higher ground so that those who arrive after you do not block your view. 2. Bring a tripod that can be used comfortably whether you sit or stand. Under some circumstances, the LCD monitor on your camera may be difficult to see when the fireworks detonate, so consider doing a Mathew Brady and use a dark cloth draped over the camera to block out extraneous light. Just make sure you don’t obstruct the lens in the process. If toting a tripod is inconvenient, bring its one-legged cousin—the monopod. It’s a shame that more folks don’t use a tripod. The tripod is the only accessory that can improve EVERY image you capture. Think about that. ![]() Use the Night Portrait mode. The camera’s flash will freeze the action without obliterating the ambient light in the background. © 2007 Jon Sienkiewicz
3. Set your camera’s ISO to 400. Keep in mind that high ISO settings and undesirable image noise go together, so be prepared to deal with that later during post processing. Experiment with ISO settings of 800 and 200, and other ISO settings, too. ![]() High ISO settings add unpleasant image noise—but it can be reduced in post-processing. © 2007 Jon Sienkiewicz
4. Turn the camera’s built-in flash OFF. This setting is generally indicated by the circle-slash-lighting bolt icon. Advanced photographers may want to try a shot or two using the Night Portrait flash setting if there are some people in the shot. Try it at least once.
![]() © 2007 Jon Sienkiewicz
5. Set the camera on manual and the f/stop to the largest setting (remember, that’s the smallest number, like f2.8 or f3.5). Set the shutter speed to 1/60th of a second for starters. Later you’ll shoot at 1/30, and 1/15 settings until you find the right combination. If you’re quick you can shoot two or three shots of each burst of fireworks, and if you’re really quick you can change shutter speeds on the fly. Use the LCD monitor to judge whether or not you’ve achieved proper exposure. When you do, continue to shoot at that combination. And always keep in mind that fireworks are much brighter than you think they should be. In other words, err on the side of under exposure and you’ll probably be right. No manual settings? Then you’ll have to shoot on Auto. The only way you can adjust the camera is by increasing and decreasing the ISO setting. If your camera selects a shutter speed that’s too long (like one-half second) your image will be a whitish, burned-out mess of streaks. Begin with the highest possible ISO setting and work your way down. ![]() Classic flower-shaped burst. © 2007 Jon Sienkiewicz
6. No need for autofocus here. If your camera has Manual Focus, Landscape Mode or forced Infinity Focus setting, you’re in luck. If not, you’ll probably still be okay, but you may lose some time while the autofocus servo motors scoot the lens in and out, looking for somewhere to lock focus. They usually default to infinity, but you could miss a shot or two. 7. All photography requires a good sense of timing, and fireworks photography even more so. Anticipate the flash point and trip the shutter so that it’s open during the peak brilliance of the explosion. Light travels faster than sound, so you’ll see the flash before you hear it. ![]() © 2007 Jon Sienkiewicz
8. Some cameras, including many Canon PowerShot models, include an infrared remote release that allows you to trigger the camera without touching it. Some other manufacturers offer this as an optional accessory, and a few cameras use old-fashioned wired releases. Touching the camera, even when it’s on a tripod, transfers movement that can appear as unsharpness in the picture. If you must press the shutter release button by hand, do it ever so gently. 9. Once you have a few great shots in the can, zoom back and/or otherwise change the composition to include some of the crowd in the picture. Silhouettes against a fireworks-lighted sky always look great, and some buildings can look dramatic, too. If you’re lucky enough to be watching fireworks launched over water, include some reflections. If at a baseball stadium, catch part of the scoreboard to add a sense of venue. ![]() © 2007 Jon Sienkiewicz
10. Fireworks are small explosions. The package that carries the explosive continues to burn on its way to the ground, leaving a trail of sparks and smoke. Because these are in freefall, they move at the whim of prevailing winds. Watch which way the wind is blowing, and if practical, have the wind at your back. It will blow the debris away from your view and you’ll get better results. Bonus tips, most of which fall into the category of common sense: ![]() Don’t overlook the obvious symbols of the event. © 2007 Jon Sienkiewicz
- Many times the end of the performance is signaled by a rapid fire barrage of white concussion rockets. Although they’re not at all colorful, they still make interesting pictures—especially because they illuminate so much of the ground below them. ![]() Not all of the action is in the sky. The greatest drama may be on the sidelines. © 2007 Jon Sienkiewicz
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