Reading a camera manual is about as much fun as listening to a fingernail scratch  across a blackboard. But for those of us who plow through the pages, the rewards are many. Having a greater understanding of how a camera works allows you to make better images. One of the classes I teach for the Panasonic Digital Photo Academy is the Intermediate level and it’s called the Ins and Outs of a Digital SLR. Inevitably, at every class, I hear comments such as:
“Wow, I didn’t know my camera could do that.”
“So that’s what that button does.”
“Now I know how to use that feature.”
The list of quotes goes on. So while it may not be the most interesting thing you’ll do in your life, I encourage you to break out the manual and give it a read. But for those who just shuddered at the thought, let me share three features that many digital SLR’s have that should be understood and used by all photographers.

© Russ Burden

Plus/Minus Icon for Exposure Compensation: Getting the proper exposure is important to prevent blowing out the highlights or blocking up the shadows. If the highlights are blown out with no recorded detail in the pixels, it results in blank white distractions - translation = not good. If the shadows block up, where shadow detail had the potential to be recorded, you’re left with black areas void of detail - translation = not good. To prevent either scenario, use the exposure compensation button. The icon is represented with a plus and minus sign separated by a forward slash. Dialing in MINUS compensation darkens the overall image and dialing in PLUS compensation lightens the overall image. So when should it be used? In the accompanying image of the figure in front of the church door, I had to dial in MINUS compensation. After I made the initial exposure, I checked my histogram and noticed there was a spike of pixels on the right edge. This was caused by the bright white trim around the door. Knowing that detail would be lost, I set the exposure compensation to MINUS one half stop. I retook the shot and upon checking the histogram, it was perfect. Had I not dialed in the compensation, the trim around the door would have been stripped of detail.

© Russ Burden

Shutter Priority: Normally found on a dial on the top of the camera, the letters MAPS is spelled out. The M stands for manual exposure, the A = aperture priority, the P = Program exposure mode and the S = shutter priority. When photographing action, many photographers turn the dial to the S setting to be able to set the camera to a specific shutter speed to stop the action. If the action is repeatable, take a photo with the shutter turned to the speed your gut tells you is needed. Take a look at the LCD to determine if you were correct. If there’s too much motion, adjust the setting to a faster shutter speed. You may need to increase the ISO if the light levels are low. I encourage you to experiment using the S for shutter speed setting and the A for aperture priority so you’ll learn how to take charge of the final look of the image.

© Russ Burden

Mirror Lock Up: Depending on the camera brand you own, this feature may be found in the Shooting Menu - the one with a camera for an icon, or it may be a button or switch on the camera itself. On my camera, there’s a dial position that says “Mup.” What this stands for is Mirror Up. The reason it’s there is to allow a sharp image to be made when using a telephoto lens accompanied with a slow shutter speed. A phenomenon known as mirror slap can detract from the sharpness of a photo. The shutter speeds that present the greatest amount of slap range from one half second to one thirtieth. They are most impacted using lenses 200mm and longer. These lenses magnify the subject which in turn magnifies any mistakes. To prevent mirror slap, opt to lock up the mirror. With the mirror already in the up position, it’s movement can’t degrade the sharpness of the photo. I used mirror lock up when I photographed the osprey as I was using a 200-400mm lens along with a 1.7 converter netting an effective focal length of 680mm. Even though my shutter speed was fast, I wanted to ensure the capture would be tack sharp.

To learn more about this topic, join me on one of my Photographic Nature Tours. Visit www.russburdenphotography.com and click on the NATURE TOURS button for more information. Also, pick up a copy of my book, Amphoto’s Complete Book of Photography. You can purchase a signed copy directly from me or visit your local book store or Amazon. Contact me at rburden@ecentral.com to order your signed copy.