I’ve been using digital capture to make photos since 2005 but I originate from the school of slide photography. This being the case, a large area of my backpack used to be taken up with filters. The slide was the end result and if the in camera capture wasn’t perfect, the image was tossed. I had to color correct, enhance the color and exposure, adjust contrast, in addition to many other things, before pressing the shutter. Since going digital, much of this has changed but there are four filters I still consider essential: the polarizer, neutral density, graduated neutral density, and UV. 

Photoshop and many other filter based software programs enable a photographer to achieve the same results of glass or resin filters. This leads to the belief that filters are no longer necessary as the effect can be created in post processing. Here’s my take on two counts:

a) If I can achieve the same effect in the field in a matter of seconds, why spend added hours in front of the computer in that I already log enough time in front of it.

b) Using the above listed filters, many of the reasons why I use them in the field can not be achieved with software - the polarizer, neutral density, UV.

Polarizer: I’m a huge fan of Nik software. Color Efex Pro has a polarizer filter and it works great to enhance the blues and saturate the warm tones. But what no software program can do that a polarizer can achieve in the field is remove glare, eliminate reflections, or add neutral density.  If glare is cast upon a shiny and colorful object, it robs the subject of its color. Spinning a polarizer will eliminate the glare and allow the color to come through.  Reflections are often cast upon shiny surfaces such as glass, metal and water. Again, spinning a polarizer removes the reflection and allows the lens to “see through” it and reveal the actual subject. A polarizer can also add neutral density if a slower shutter speed is needed. 

        Without Polarizer    With Polarizer            

 ©Russ Burden

Neutral Density: Neutral density filters come in different strengths. I own a three and six stop. If needed, I stack them. They are essential to reduce the amount of light that strikes the sensor. Most digital cameras go down to ISO 100 and some can be expanded to 50, but depending on the effect you need, it may not be enough. If the sun is out and  you need a multi second exposure, the only solution is to add neutral density. In nature photography, the cotton candy effect on water requires a slow shutter. The silky look can not be made using software. Slowing down the shutter in crowded places where people are moving can help make them disappear. This is a lot easier than using the clone stamp tool for hours. 

                   Without Neutral Density     With Neutral Density                        

 ©Russ Burden

Graduated Neutral Density: Let me start off by saying that I have used software to produce the effect of a graduated ND filter but the bottom line is it adds to my time in front of the computer. For me, there’s something about getting it “right” in the field that’s satisfying. It’s also quick and often necessary. Take for instance someone who makes a single shot and reconciles that he/she will resort to “fix” the image in post processing. But what if the range between the two contrast areas was too severe and he/she didn’t realize this? The result is a photo with blown out highlights OR shadow detail with way too much noise. The Moral - don’t allow digital capture to make you sloppy or lazy.

        Without Graduated Neutral Density    With Graduated Neutral Density            

 ©Russ Burden

The UV: Photographically, this filter does very little for me, especially in the digital age. But what it can do and has done for me, is saved the front element of my lens. If it saves you just once, the investemnt is worth it. I buy only the highest quality filters in that I don’t want to put cheap glass in front of my expensive lenses. But even with the higher purchase price, if it takes the brunt of a falling lens or the scratch as it bumps into something sharp, it’s well worth the price. Try protecting your lens with software!

To learn more about this topic, join me on one of my Nature Photo Tours. Visit russburdenphotography.com and click on the NATURE TOURS button for more information. Also, email me to be placed on my Tip of the Week list and to receive announcements about upcoming tours specials or to pick up a copy of my book, Amphoto’s Complete Book of Photography. You can purchase a signed copy directly from me or visit your local book store or Amazon. Contact me at rburden@ecentral.com to order your signed copy.