Better Focus Results
Russ Burden
Rating: 9 / 10
Select The Proper Focus Point: When I’m teaching either the beginner or intermediate level classes for the Digital Photo Academy in Denver, one of the biggest “Aha’s” I hear is that, “I can move the focus sensor to place it where I want it...
When I think back to some of the great sports and actions shots made before autofocus was introduced, I appreciate how good each photographer was who made these images. Each was a master at their craft. Then just about 30 years ago, autofocus was implemented into SLRs and the landscape began to change. While crude and unreliable at first, the technology kept getting better until it was a given that autofocus was here to stay. It keeps getting better, faster, more accurate, and more reliable. For this I am extremely grateful and my number of keepers has gone up exponentially. Yet with all the improvements, why is it that photographers still get images that are not in focus? Hopefully the following tips will net you tack sharp photos.
Select The Proper Focus Point: When I’m teaching either the beginner or intermediate level classes for the Digital Photo Academy in Denver, one of the biggest “Aha’s” I hear is that, “I can move the focus sensor to place it where I want it?” If the active focus sensor is aimed at the background and your subjects are only a few feet in front of you, they will not be sharp. To activate a given focus point, press half way down on the shutter and press the command dial on the back of the camera in the direction to where you need the focus point to be placed. This will ensure the lens sees what plane you want sharp.

© Russ Burden
Single vs Continuous: If the subject is not moving, it’s better to be in single shot autofocus. You will hear a confirmation beep when the plane at which you place the focus sensor is sharp. Landscapes, architecture, posed portraits, interiors are all examples of subjects that work better using single shot. Continuous should be used when the subject is moving, especially if the path at which it moves is erratic. As always, the sensor needs to be placed over the moving subject but by being in continuous, the camera will predict the movement of the subject and adjust for any variation at the time the shutter opens.

© Russ Burden
Work Within the Limitations of Your Gear: One reason photographers get frustrated with their less than sharp photographs is they expect more out of their equipment than what its capable of producing. While many advancements in the world of autofocus have been made, if you exceed its capabilities, it can’t deliver. I photograph a lot of birds in flight and by no means do I expect every image be sharp especially if the bird is flying directly at me. Slow lenses and entry level cameras can’t equal the capabilities of pro equipment. And given the situation, even the top pro equipment can’t net a tack sharp image every time the shutter is pressed.

© Russ Burden
In the three images that accompany the article, I used different focus methods.
a) The first was made using manual focus. It’s a rock formation in Arches National Park that I painted with light. The time at which it was made was too dark for autofocus to work. I got to the location when there was still enough light to use autofocus and I locked onto the rock. I immediately switched to manual focus and made every subsequent image using it. Had I remained in autofocus, the camera would have searched in the dark for something to lock onto and not found it.
b) The skateboarder was made using manual focus as I knew his target was the barrel. I focused on the barrel and left the lens set to that position. I tracked the boarder from far away and when he got into position, I laid on the motor drive. Had I remained in autofocus, the camera would try to track the boarder the entire way and maybe not lock on at the time he was over the barrel. By going to manual, I knew he’d be in focus when he reached the point of the jump.
c) The white feathers of the egret at dawn lacked contrast so I placed the focus sensor on his beak. Given the lack of contrast of the feathers, it was possible the lens wouldn’t be able to focus. Placing it on the beak provided my system a point of contrast and ensured the focus would be accurate.
To learn more about this topic, join me on one of my Photographic Nature Tours. Visit russburdenphotography.com and click on the NATURE TOURS button for more information. Also, pick up a copy of my book, Amphoto’s Complete Book of Photography. You can purchase a signed copy directly from me or visit your local book store or Amazon. Contact me at rburden@ecentral.com to order your signed copy.





Debbie
01-02-2011
Nice article, can you do any of these movement pictures in S mode? Being new to photography, have not gotten my camera in manual mode yet. Thank youSheba Wheeler
01-02-2011
Great article, Russ. I've been having that problem myself and I thought it was because I was getting old and needed glasses. I will give that continuous shot a try when I do action, as I normally just do single shot and hope and pray that I get it.Russ
01-02-2011
Hey Debbie - using S mode also works well. Just be sure to check that the corresponding aperture works regarding the desired depth of field.Richard Baker
01-02-2011
Great article, This should heip me take better quality images. I should be able get better action shots. ThanksMark
01-02-2011
Very useful info. I'd think most novice photogs believe autofocus is the answer to everything.Ronald Stein
01-02-2011
Great article.. thanks!!Darlene
03-02-2011
very helpful...thanks!Russ Burden
05-02-2011
The information about changing focus it's of vital importance to teach in my class to my students and I learn myself at the same time. Thank you