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October 6, 2008 |
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Created and Maintained by: The Photoimaging Information Council |
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by Russ Burden |
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For those of you who are regular readers of my weekly photo tips, you know the vast majority are written for users of 35mm SLR’s. With this in mind, it’s time I give some props to all the point and shooters of the world. Now before all you regular readers grab the mouse and click on another link, read on. Isn’t it about time you had some fun with a point and shoot? Wouldn’t it be nice to get some great shots and not have to lug around your 35mm equipment? Haven’t you thought about getting one or using the one you already bought that is reserved for the others in the family? I’m dedicating the entire month of July’s tips to those who sport and take pride in their digital point and shoots. So spread the word to your point and shoot friends, spouses, and significant others to read the tips each week in July. I also encourage you to look into classes sponsored by the Panasonic Digital Photo Academy. They offer an array for all levels, including one solely dedicated to teaching students how to use their digital point and shoots. Check out digitalphotoacademy.com for more information.  © Russ Burden
Take Control Of The Flash: The automatic flash mode on most point and shoots works great. Providing you work within its distance limitation of up to approximately 15 feet, well exposed flash images will be the result. If you exceed this distance, the flash doesn’t have enough power and therefore, not effect the look of the photograph. The guideline then is to be closer than 15 feet to your subject for it to work. But most of today’s point and shoots offer more modes than just Automatic. Learning how to use these options will improve your photos. To access the flash menu, look for an icon on one of the buttons that has a lightning bolt. This should bring you to a menu that allows access to change the flash settings.  © Russ Burden
Automatic with Red Eye: When you’re photographing people, this is the mode in which you want to be. This mode sends out a pre flash that helps contract the pupil of the subject. Right after the low level pre flash is sent out, the main burst of light that exposes the photo is emitted. Because the pre flash contracts the pupil, not as much light is reflected off the inside of the eye, which in turn reduces the dreaded red eye effect. Slow Synch with Red Eye: Master this mode and you’ll bring the level of your photography way up. Quite often, the result of an image made with flash is a well exposed subject but the background goes very dark. The slow synch setting will remedy this. What it does is allows the shutter to remain open for a longer period of time. This in turn lets the light in the background build up on the sensor. The end product is both a well exposed subject with a brighter background. The effect works especially well when taking a portrait of your family in front of city lights. By setting the camera to slow synch, more of the city lights will show up. In that the shutter does stay open for a longer period of time, using a tripod or other means of steadying the camera is essential.  © Russ Burden
Forced Flash On: In the automatic or automatic with red eye modes, a flash will not fire when there’s a lot of interior light or when you’re outdoors. By setting the flash to Forced On, the flash will fire regardless of the amount of light. There are times, especially when you’re taking photos outside, that the light is too contrasty. By adding flash to the photo, the contrast will be reduced. A great situation to use Forced Flash On is when you’re taking photos of people outdoors and it’s sunny. Strong shadows are formed in the eye sockets, below the nose, and under the chin. The flash will add light to these areas resulting in a much more pleasing image. Remember that you need to be within 15 feet of your subject to see the effect. Forced Flash Off: “Warning - No Flash Photography Allowed.” If you frequent museums or other places where you’ve encountered this sign, what many people do is simply put their camera away and leave photo-less. Instead, set you camera to Forced Off and make the photo. Chances are the light will be dim so you'll need a means of steadying the camera to get a sharp image.  © Russ Burden
The above information should arm you with many new strategies to improve your flash photography. To learn the nuances of your flash in greater detail, visit the pages in your manual that give more information about its capabilities. If you really want to learn the ins and outs of your digital point and shoot, look into the class offered by the Panasonic Digital Photo Academy called the Ins and Outs of Your Digital Point and Shoot. It’s a three hour class teaching you about all the features of a digital point and shoot camera. To learn more about this topic, join me on one of my Photographic Nature Tours. Visit www.russburdenphotography.com and click on the NATURE TOURS button for more information. Also, pick up a copy of my new book, Amphoto’s Complete Book of Photography. You can purchase a signed copy directly from me or visit your local book store or Amazon. Contact me at rburden@ecentral.com to order your signed copy.
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