Backlight is certainly not the easiest type of light with which to work, but taming it is a lot less difficult than you think.
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To shoot directly into the sun or other main source of light introduces many problems: flare, erratic exposure, contrast issues, and lost detail are among the most common. Understanding how they impact the image and learning how to work with each results in successfully and dramatically lit photographs. It’s certainly not the easiest type of light with which to work, but taming it is a lot less difficult than you think. Don’t let backlight horror stories frighten you. Use the following tips to learn how to shoot into the light.
Augment the Light - Reflector: The stronger the backlight, the less revealed detail on the shadow side of the subject. In that it’s the shadow side that faces the camera, little, if any detail at all will be shown. In order to put light on the shadow side, use a reflector. A reflector can be used to direct light back onto the subject. In that the source of light hits the front of the reflector, simply aim the reflected light onto the subject to allow detail to be revealed. A white reflector bounces soft light onto the subject. A silver one creates a harsher and brighter source. To add warmth to the subject, use a gold one.
Augment the Light - Flash: With regards to the same issues a photographer confronts above, instead of using a reflector, let the wonder and ease of technology assist you in the form of flash. The same effects can be had as with a reflector. If you want softer light, attach a diffuser to the end of the flash. If you want a harsh and bright source, use straight flash. Attach a warm toned gel over the front of the flash to create the same effect as using a gold reflector. Flash has an added advantage of not needing an assistant to hold the reflector. While stands are available that support one on its own, a windy day can introduce many problems.
Block It: Use the sun to create an added dimension to the image allowing a small slice of it to peak from behind the subject. It adds a specular highlight to the image that becomes a focal point. If you’re not familiar with this trick, you need to play with it. Stop the lens down to f22. Because of the way the sun interacts with the aperture blades of the lens, a natural sunstar effect is created. In the accompanying shot of the backlit aspens I used this technique. Check your histogram to make sure the image isn’t too dark. Due to the fact you’re shooting into a bright light source, the meter may be fooled. If the overall image is too dark, dial in some plus compensation.
Silhouette It: If the subject has interesting form and shape, use strong backlighting to your advantage and create a silhouette. Base the exposure on the sky excluding the sun from the composition and lock in the reading. Doing so should net you a well exposed sky and silhouetted subject. If the end result doesn’t give you a complete silhouette, use levels or curves to punch up the blacks to void the subject of detail.
To learn more about this topic, join me on one of my Photographic Nature Tours. Visit russburdenphotography.com and click on the NATURE TOURS button for more information. Also, pick up a copy of my book, Amphoto’s Complete Book of Photography. You can purchase a signed copy directly from me or visit your local book store or Amazon. Contact me at rburden@ecentral.com to order your signed copy.
