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Twilight Delight By Russ Burden

Twilight Delight By Russ Burden   

Twilight Delight By Russ Burden

Russ explains the use of twilight shooting.

Article rating: 9.45


Many photographers use the light at sunset and sunrise to create magnificent photographs. The angle of the sun creates gorgeous sidelight, the colors are warm, the air is often still, and it's simply just a great time to be outdoors. But more often than not, right after the sun goes down, the sound of collapsing tripods permeates the surroundings as does camera bag zippers being closed in addition to the pitter patter of footsteps as the exodus from the scene occurs. While it's great that everyone captured the late light, each and every photographer who exits doesn't realize that the best possible fifteen minutes of the day has yet to arrive.

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                                                            © Russ Burden
For new readers of this weekly column, you may not know that I teach classes for the Panasonic Digital Photo Academy. In a few of the curriculums, there are illustrative slides that discuss and demonstrate the impact of twilight photography. Each and every time I get to this portion, "wow"s are heard from the students and notes are taken reminding them to try out the technique. Maybe it's the power of never seeing images created at this time of day, or better yet, it's an eye opener that this time of day provides magical light.

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                                                          © Russ Burden
Twilight photography occurs thirty minutes before sunrise and thirty minutes after sunset. The sky takes on a cobalt blue color with a gradient like effect. The top of the gradient is dark and the bottom is light. The sky has yet to go black creating separation between it and the subject. If you wait too long after sunset or get there too early before sunrise, the sky is black and the subject and sky merge making it difficult to differentiate where the subject ends. A silhouette shot against a black sky nets a poor image. 


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                                                        © Russ Burden

Ordinary scenes shot at twilight take on extraordinary drama. You often wind up with results that are not discernible to the eye. Colors you don't even realize are there get etched onto the sensor. All this occurs during exposures lasting up to one minute and possibly more based on the circumstances. An obvious given is you need a sturdy tripod to prevent camera movement during the exposure. Set the camera to a low ISO. It will produce the best quality. Given the fact it's on a tripod, shooting at a high ISO doesn't benefit. Go to your Record or Custom menu and make sure you have Long Exposure Noise Reduction turned ON. The drawback is it takes a while for the image to be "processed" in the camera, but the trade off is an image with much less digital noise. I highly encourage you to use a cable release as opposed to having to keep your finger on the shutter. Inevitably, camera movement will be recorded if you use the finger method. Finally, in that proper color balance may be tough to nail given the mixed lighting conditions, it's essential to shoot in RAW mode so it can be tweaked in the computer with no image degradation.

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                                                      © Russ Burden


To learn more about this topic, join me on one of my Photographic Nature Tours. Visit russburdenphotography.com and click on the NATURE TOURS button for more information. Also, pick up a copy of my new book, Amphoto's Complete Book of Photography. You can purchase a signed copy directly from me or visit your local book store or Amazon. Contact me at   rburden@ecentral.com   to order your signed copy.

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